I stayed at the Kulm with a friend last December, on our way from Zurich to Zermatt by train, which is one of the coolest train trips that you can take- word to the wise.
First off, any hotel that figures out when you will be arriving at an airport, or in this case, train station, without you telling them and sends someone to fetch you deserves major props, I was impressed. But when the guy they send is in the hotel’s livery and the ride is an awesome, crested, vintage limousine with a ski rack, well– be still my heart.
The hotel has very impressive, Grande public spaces- lots of gilt, red velvet, crystal, dark wood, and oil paintings that may have been bought off of some ailing aristocratic family– if I remember correctly. The rooms are done to a very high standard (although that standard may belong to your grandmother). Ours had gorgeous views of the lake and mountains, miles of wainscoting, a couple of club chairs and enough pastel tartan to satisfy all of geriatric female Scotland. The bathroom was on the smaller side, but functional and luxurious, and the products are pinch-worthy.
The highlight, design-wise, of this hotel is the 60s alpine-mod indoor pool and spa area which sits behind a wall of glass fronting lake and mountains. I could have sworn I saw a younger Sean Connery seducing a knowing blonde beauty pool-side.
We stayed pre-season, so the hotel was rather empty, nice for examining the objets d’art but a bit dull when the evening kicks in if you are looking for action. Badrutt’s was far livelier in terms of, well, in terms of anything, so we mostly cocktailed there, then hit the “clubs.”
Breakfast was typical for 5 star Swiss hotels, although service was a bit too eager. I’m sure the season’s recruits evened out by the full swing of things in February though.
Overall, lovely St. Moritz Grande Dame.
